【秋月纪行】：酿酒师小镇科勒蒙斯Cormons（二）

“雨过天晴云破处”

酒过一巡。屋外的方砖几乎已经干透，酿酒师们也陆续离开酒吧，在这个繁忙的采收季里回到田间继续下午的工作。在伊莲娜Elena女士的建议下，我们在结束了白葡萄酒的品鉴后进入到红葡萄酒的部分，感受弗留利Friuli当地红葡萄品种的风采。依然没有吐酒桶，又是一轮，努力加餐饭。

8- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Friuli Isonzo DOC, Franconia, 2013
9- Bastiani Barbara, Il Neri, Vino Rosso (2011)
10- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, Schioppettino, 2014
11- Bastiani Barbara, Venezia Giulia IGT, Schioppettino, 2013
12- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Delle Venezie IGT, Pignolo, 2014

8- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Friuli Isonzo DOC, Franconia, 2013

弗兰科尼亚Franconia是Blaufrankisch蓝法兰克在意大利的名字，也是可能作为品种原产地的德国的一个区域的地理名称。考虑到意大利东北部曾经属于奥匈帝国的统治，那么今天流行在奥地利的蓝法兰克Blaufrankisch出现在这个边界区域，也就并不奇怪了。

笔记：樱桃、桉树叶和烤木头香气。干型，中高酸度，中高酒精。入口是浓郁的酸樱桃，收尾中是香草气息。

English Version
Cherry, eucalyptus and charred wood. Dry, m+ acidity, m+ alcohol. Pronounced sour cherries on the palate with vanilla in the finish.

9- Bastiani Barbara, Il Neri, Vino Rosso (2011)

这大概是一款Vini da Tavola（即餐酒）级别的葡萄酒。在今天意大利IGT和DOC已经覆盖了大多数葡萄酒产区的情况下，这种故意采用更低的分级标准的情况常见于生产者特立独行的决心，借此种植酿造一些目前还不被当地法规认可但自己认为独具价值的葡萄品种。因为法律限制的原因，酒标上不能标注品种、年份、产地等各类常见信息，幸亏在酒吧里可以咨询对这些葡萄酒了如指掌的伊莲娜Elena女士，我们才得知这是2011年份的葡萄酒以及确认品种同样是弗兰科尼亚Franconia。

笔记：浓郁的成熟樱桃、苹果起泡酒及些许湿树叶和木料味，入口转为香草和花香。干型，中高酸度，中高酒精度，单宁柔和细致。

English Version
Pronounced ripe cherry and cider(apple sparkling) with lesser wet leaves and wood on the nose. Dry, m+ acidity, m+ alcohol, elegeny fine tannin. Perfume and vanilla on the palate.

10- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, Schioppettino, 2014

葡萄酒的生产商科勒蒙斯生产者酒庄Cantina Produttori Cormons是当地类似合作社性质的主体，在1968年由一小批葡萄农共同发起成立。如今酒庄由120个葡萄农家庭组成，成员下至24岁上至86岁，旨在忠实表达当地特色，在酿造和采收上都有一套自己的做法，整体上属于早采收的风格。

笔记：樱桃、夏天的深色树叶和灌木气息。干型，中高酸度。干而细腻的单宁。入口为灌木味道，在收尾中转为羊奶酪和些许的坚果味。

English Version
Cherry and dark leaves with juniper on the nose. Dry, m+ acidity, dry but fine tannin. Hedge on the palate. Goat cheese in the finish and with a hint of nuttiness.

11- Bastiani Barbara, Venezia Giulia IGT, Schioppettino, 2013

笔记：湿树叶和焦糖香气。干型，中等酸度，成熟而富有毛皮感的单宁。

English Version
Wet leaves, Caramelized. Dry, medium acidity, ripe tannin but furry texture.

12- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Delle Venezie IGT, Pignolo, 2014

匹纽娄Pignolo恐怕是继现在经常被称为意大利单宁之王的Sagrantino桑格兰提诺葡萄之后，又一个体型庞大、超级晚熟的品种，需要漫长的陈年过程来达到巅峰，展现内涵。值得特别一提的是，这支酒特别采用了弗留利Friuli本地的细纹理橡木制作的木桶来进行熟成。

笔记：辛辣的青辣椒香气和香草。中等酸度，中高的细腻单宁，还是香草主导和在收尾中。

English Version
Wet leaves, Caramelized. Dry, medium acidity, ripe tannin but furry texture.

再试过一支2012的梅洛Merlot和品丽珠Cabernet Franc的混酿以及一支2013年的艾列夫斯科-达-潘通克罗-尔罗叟Refosco dal Penduncolo Rosso后，我们的红葡萄酒品鉴就要告一段落。这时，酒吧的服务生热情地走过来邀请我们，私人请我们再喝上两杯当地特色的甜酒，算在她的帐上。在科勒蒙斯Cormons，我们真的体会到，什么叫盛情难却。

这两支甜酒是来自同一生产商的不同年份的葡萄酒，前后相差近十年，反应了葡萄酒的陈年能力和发展。酿酒所用的葡萄品种是维乐杜佐-弗留拉诺Verduzzo Friulano，是弗留利Friuli地区的本地白葡萄品种，富含单宁，最著名的用途就是用来酿造甜型葡萄酒。酿成的葡萄酒经常被简称为维乐杜佐Verduzzo，由于其强烈的杏仁味道，非常适合和当地高品质的甜杏仁饼干一起搭配，经常被拿来分享在圣诞节前夜和家人朋友一起的围炉小酌上。

13- Manzocco, Venezia Giulia IGT, Verduzzo, 2015
14- Manzocco, Venezia Giulia IGT, Verduzzo, 2006

13- Manzocco, Venezia Giulia IGT, Verduzzo, 2015

笔记：果仁香气，中高酸度，甜，长余味中富有植物气息。

English Version
Nutty on the nose. Medium+ aicidty, sweet, long aftertaste of verdure.

14- Manzocco, Venezia Giulia IGT, Verduzzo, 2006

笔记：深邃浓郁且纯净的熟苹果香气，中等酵母和杏仁在余味中。风格偏向单一维度，但具有非常好的浓郁度和收尾，且平衡。

English Version
Deep intense but pure ripe apple flavor with medium yeast and almond in the finish. Of very good intensity, good length and balance. Simple complexity of one dimension.

临别相赠，伊莲娜Elena女士又帮我们画下了所在的戈里齐亚Gorizia的另外几家酒吧的位置。这对我来说真是莫大的帮助，不然后来不知道自己要转到什么时候才能找到。

从白葡萄酒开始，到最终十几支酒一一品位下咽，我的记录变得潦草，心情则似乎莫名的愉悦起来。带着从酒吧买到的著名的甜杏仁饼干，走出门外时，小广场上微妙隐晦的雨意已经被一扫而空，蓝天高远，云朵洁白，如絮如画地展开在背景里，衬得小雨洗刷过的镇子更加一尘不染、多彩浓郁。

搭上火车返程，沿途经过的易松佐Isonzo河宽阔平静，在雨后如镜面般光滑，连同大桥、浮云和河岸边茂密的树木一起把世界映成了两份。这就是随着酒标上名为Friuli Isonzo的产区名漂流世界的易松佐Isonzo河。

火车转眼跨过易松佐Isonzo河，就要回到戈里齐亚Gorizia。半天过去，想来也该是雨过天晴了。
【全文完】

关于Cormons的白葡萄酒部分，请回看上期文章:《【秋月纪行】酿酒师小镇科勒蒙斯Cormons（一）》

本文图片全部由Lulu和Freddo拍摄并拥有版权。【秋月纪行】：酿酒师小镇科勒蒙斯CORMONS（二）是发布于VinoFreddo.online的文章，不允许被复制于其他站点。【秋月纪行】：酿酒师小镇科勒蒙斯CORMONS（二） is a post from: VinoFreddo.online which is not allowed to be copied on other sites

参考

*https://cormons.com/
*https://www.vinimanzocco.it/
*https://en.wikipedia.org/
* 《Native Wine Grapes of Italy》, By Ian D’Agata
* 《Wine Grapes》, By Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding & Jose Vouillamoz

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Vini Italiani

【秋月纪行】：酿酒师小镇科勒蒙斯Cormons（二）

8- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Friuli Isonzo DOC, Franconia, 2013

English Version
Cherry, eucalyptus and charred wood. Dry, m+ acidity, m+ alcohol. Pronounced sour cherries on the palate with vanilla in the finish.

9- Bastiani Barbara, Il Neri, Vino Rosso (2011)

English Version
Pronounced ripe cherry and cider(apple sparkling) with lesser wet leaves and wood on the nose. Dry, m+ acidity, m+ alcohol, elegeny fine tannin. Perfume and vanilla on the palate.

10- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, Schioppettino, 2014

English Version
Cherry and dark leaves with juniper on the nose. Dry, m+ acidity, dry but fine tannin. Hedge on the palate. Goat cheese in the finish and with a hint of nuttiness.

11- Bastiani Barbara, Venezia Giulia IGT, Schioppettino, 2013

English Version
Wet leaves, Caramelized. Dry, medium acidity, ripe tannin but furry texture.

12- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Delle Venezie IGT, Pignolo, 2014

English Version
Wet leaves, Caramelized. Dry, medium acidity, ripe tannin but furry texture.

13- Manzocco, Venezia Giulia IGT, Verduzzo, 2015

English Version
Nutty on the nose. Medium+ aicidty, sweet, long aftertaste of verdure.

14- Manzocco, Venezia Giulia IGT, Verduzzo, 2006

English Version
Deep intense but pure ripe apple flavor with medium yeast and almond in the finish. Of very good intensity, good length and balance. Simple complexity of one dimension.

关于Cormons的白葡萄酒部分，请回看上期文章:《【秋月纪行】酿酒师小镇科勒蒙斯Cormons（一）》

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8- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Friuli Isonzo DOC, Franconia, 2013

English VersionCherry, eucalyptus and charred wood. Dry, m+ acidity, m+ alcohol. Pronounced sour cherries on the palate with vanilla in the finish.

9- Bastiani Barbara, Il Neri, Vino Rosso (2011)

English VersionPronounced ripe cherry and cider(apple sparkling) with lesser wet leaves and wood on the nose. Dry, m+ acidity, m+ alcohol, elegeny fine tannin. Perfume and vanilla on the palate.

10- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, Schioppettino, 2014

English VersionCherry and dark leaves with juniper on the nose. Dry, m+ acidity, dry but fine tannin. Hedge on the palate. Goat cheese in the finish and with a hint of nuttiness.

11- Bastiani Barbara, Venezia Giulia IGT, Schioppettino, 2013

English VersionWet leaves, Caramelized. Dry, medium acidity, ripe tannin but furry texture.

12- Cantina Produttori Cormons, Delle Venezie IGT, Pignolo, 2014

English VersionWet leaves, Caramelized. Dry, medium acidity, ripe tannin but furry texture.

13- Manzocco, Venezia Giulia IGT, Verduzzo, 2015

English VersionNutty on the nose. Medium+ aicidty, sweet, long aftertaste of verdure.

14- Manzocco, Venezia Giulia IGT, Verduzzo, 2006

English VersionDeep intense but pure ripe apple flavor with medium yeast and almond in the finish. Of very good intensity, good length and balance. Simple complexity of one dimension.

关于Cormons的白葡萄酒部分，请回看上期文章:《【秋月纪行】酿酒师小镇科勒蒙斯Cormons（一）》

发表评论 取消回复

English Version
Cherry, eucalyptus and charred wood. Dry, m+ acidity, m+ alcohol. Pronounced sour cherries on the palate with vanilla in the finish.

English Version
Pronounced ripe cherry and cider(apple sparkling) with lesser wet leaves and wood on the nose. Dry, m+ acidity, m+ alcohol, elegeny fine tannin. Perfume and vanilla on the palate.

English Version
Cherry and dark leaves with juniper on the nose. Dry, m+ acidity, dry but fine tannin. Hedge on the palate. Goat cheese in the finish and with a hint of nuttiness.

English Version
Wet leaves, Caramelized. Dry, medium acidity, ripe tannin but furry texture.

English Version
Wet leaves, Caramelized. Dry, medium acidity, ripe tannin but furry texture.

English Version
Nutty on the nose. Medium+ aicidty, sweet, long aftertaste of verdure.

English Version
Deep intense but pure ripe apple flavor with medium yeast and almond in the finish. Of very good intensity, good length and balance. Simple complexity of one dimension.

发表评论取消回复